Shoe-sewing machine



" 2 Sheets-Sheet: l.

Patented May 9, I899.

cggimmg- E. E. WINKLEY. SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed June 5, 1897.)

$5 1 h x 1 r@/ w p (No Model.)

WITNESSES- THE Moms PETERS 00., Pumau'rum wasnmn'rom 0.0.

No. 624,599. Patantedma y 9, I899. E. E. WINKLEY.

' SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application fllad June 5, 1897.)

2 Sheets-Shae! 2.

(No Model.)

1 NrrED STATES PATENT OFFICE. I

ERASTUSE. WINKLEY, OF LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS.

SHOE-*SEWING MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part Of Letters Patent NO. 624,599, dated May 9, 1899. Application filed June 5, 1897. Serial No. 639,628. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, ERASTUS E. WINKLEY, a citizen of the United States, residing at Lynn, in the county of Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Shoe-Sewing Machines; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same. Y

The present invention relates to improvements in shoe-sewin g machines, and more particularly to certain improvementsin that type of shoe-sewing machines which unite the welt to the lasted upper and inner sole and generally known as welt machines. I-Ieretofore machines of this class have generally been of the chain-stitch type for the reason that much difiiculty has been found in adapting a lock-stitch machine for this work. It is essential that the welt and upper be drawn tightly against the shoulder or lip of the insole, and in the lock-stitch machines of the prior art much difficulty has been encountered in adapting lock stitch mechanism to this class of work, for the reason that it has beenextremely difficult to regulate the tension to properly draw in against the shoulder or lip, the upper, and welt and to correctly position the lock in the between substances. If the shuttle tension be too great, the lock will be left too near the outside of the between substances and thefstitch will be loose, and if the tension of the shuttle-thread be too light the lock will be drawn through the between substances, also leaving a loose stitch.

In a former application, filed by'me March 26, 1897, SerialNo. 629,411, I have shown and described a machine which is adapted to unite thewelt, upper, and insole by a lock-stitch and which is designed to overcome the difficulties above set forth, and the present invention relates to certain improvements on said machine. In said machine as the supply-thread take-up, acts to draw on the supply-thread to set the stitch the shuttle-thread is locked or the tension is increased thereon, and a shut-tle-thread-measuring device is employed which measures off-from the shuttle the amount of thread required for a stitch, and the tension-on both the supply and shuttle threads is properly regulated and con trolled to accurately set the stitch and posi- 'tion the lock in the between substance. In

the present machine the'shnttle-thread-measuring device is omitted and the shuttle is constructed and arranged to have a movement toward and from the work to measure or pull off the shuttle-thread for the stitch, and a take-up device acting on the shuttle-thread cooperates with the supply-thread take-up in setting the stitch.

The present invention consists of the devices and combination of devices which will be hereinafter described and claimed.

The invention is shown in the accompany ing drawings, in which Figure 1 is a side view-of a welt-sewing machine embodying a preferred form of the present invention, a portion of the frame being broken away to show underlying parts and the supporting-column omitted. Fig. 2 shows in side elevation the shuttle mechanism and the shuttle-thread take-up. Fig. 3 shows the same parts in plan View, and Fig. 4 shows a fragmentary detail of the shuttle driving mechanism.

Similar letters of reference refer to similar parts throughout the several views.

In the drawings, A represents the head or frame suitable to support the working parts of the machine and which may be conveniently mounted upon the usual supporting column orstandard. (Notshown.) Thehead A is provided with the usual standards a, (one only being shown,-) on which are provided suitable bearings for the main shaft B, which carries a series of actuating-cams (one only beingshown) and which will be hereinafter called the foam-shaft and to which power may be applied in any convenient manner.

D represents the needle, mounted upon the needle-segment d, pivoted at-d to a fixed part (1 of frame A, and actuated by a link 01, pivoted at d to the needle-segment, and at its rear end pivotally connected at d to one arm d of a lever fulcrumed upon the shaft B and actuated by a cam and connections (not shown) from the camshaft B.

The above-described arrangement is such shown,) actuate the arm cl of the lever fulcrumed upon shaft B, and impart a motion of reciprocation to the link of, which oscillates the segment 61 about its center d, causing the needle D to be advanced and retracted along a circular path.

E represents the looper, which may be actuated in any suitable manner to impart thereto a movement toward and from the needle D in a circular path to place the needle-thread in the hook thereof.

F represents the supply-thread measurer, which preferably has a swinging or oscillating movement in such manner that when it has engaged the thread it is carried upward and outward toward the medial line of the sole, as fully described in my pending appli cation hereinbefore referred to.

T represents the supply-thread takeup, mounted on a take-up leveri, fixed to the end of a short shaft '6, upon which is fixed a segmental pinion 25 with which engages a segmental rack '6 carried by an arm i of a lever 25 fulcrumed on an arm a on the standard a and actuated by a cam (not shown) on the cam-shaft B.

P represents the welt-guide, which may be of any usual or convenient construction, mounted upon an arm 19, rigidly secured to the feed-slide 12, said feed-slide being mounted to reciprocate in aguidewaypi formed in a block 19 fixedly secured to a fixed portion of the frame or head A.

0 represents the channel-guide, which is properly curved and shaped at its lower end to engage the channel of the shoe-sole and is arranged to have a movement toward and from the welt-guide P to clamp and release the work and a lateral feeding movement with the welt-guide to feed the work.

All of the foregoingelements may in so far as the present invention is concerned be of any usual or preferred form and arrangement and actuated byany suitable orconvenient means to cause them to perform the functions which they are designed to perform. For convenience they are illustrated in Fig. 1 as they appear in the application hereinbefore -referred to; butwvhile said arrangement is preferred it is not essential to. the present invention, itbeing only necessary that the parts shall be timed and arranged to perform the usual function of such devices in machines of this character.

In the present machine, as in the machine ofthe application referred to, the welt-guide P preferably has no movement toward and from the work, but is fixed rigidly so that it will form a back gage against which the work may be pressed and against which it is locked by the channel-guide during the movement of the channel-guide and welt-guide along the line of feed to feed the work.

H represents the shuttle, which may be arranged to oscillate or rotate in a suitable shuttle-race h, the shuttle being actuated in said race by a shuttle-driver h, having a projection which engages the shuttle between the the movements of the shuttle II.

hook and heel in the usual manner. The shuttle-driver h is mounted in a bracket h affixed to the shuttle-race h, and is actuated by a short shaft 72, which is fixed in a bear= ing 72, carried by an arm h, secured in a fixed position upon the frame A. Upon the by a lever 7L7, fulcrumed upon the shaft B and actuated bya cam (not shown) upon the cam-shaft-B, so arranged that the shuttledriver 7i will be oscillated and impart an oscillating motion to the shuttle H.

In the present invention the shuttle H is.

given a longitudinal reciprocating movement in order to draw off or measure off the shuttle-thread for a stitch, and to provide for this movement of the shuttle there is a movable connection between the shaft 7L2 and'the shuttle-driver 7t, the shuttle-driver partaking of Any suitable connection may be employed between the shuttle-driver h and the shaft h which will permit the movement of the shuttle-driver out of alinementwith the axis of the shaft 7L2 and which will insure the operative and correct engagement thereof to actuate the shuttle when the shuttle-driver shall have been moved forward to again position the shuttledriver 72/ in alinement with the shaft 72?. In the machine of the drawings the connection between the shuttle-driver h and the shaft It consists of a disk It, secured to the shuttle-driver h, and a disk 717, secured to the end of the shaft 71 the disk It having a diametrical rib 7L8, which engages a diametrical groove 7L9 in the disk 71 the construction being such that the shuttle-driver h is always maintained in operative connection with the shaft 71, as the shuttle-driver 7L moves backward with the shuttle H.

To provide for the forward-and backward movement of the shuttle, the shuttle-race h is mounted upon a carrier 11', which is adapted to be reciprocated along a guidewayIP, formed in or on the frame A, said carrier I-I being moved along said guideway H bya lever H which is. fulcrumed upon the shaft B and at' its upper'end engages a cam 13 on'the camshaft B and at its lower end is pivotally connected at b to a short link b, which in turn is pivotally connected at b to the carrier H. The above-described arrangement is such that a rotation of the cam-shaft B will, by means of the cam B thereon, oscillate the lever H ICO and impart to the carrier H a reciprocating movement along the guide H thus moving the shuttle H back and forth toward and from the work, the backward movement acting to pull from'the bobbin h in the shuttle the amount of shuttle-thread required for the next stitch.

In the present invention there is provided a shuttle-thread tension device, which is so constructed and arranged that upon a retraction of the shuttle the tension on the shuttle-thread is released, so that it may be drawn therefrom, and upon a forward or outward movement of the shuttle the tension on the thread will be increased in order that it may be held from being drawn out during the action of the shuttle-thread take-up.

As shown in the accompanying drawings, the lead of the shuttle-thread w is across the face of the bobbin h, the bobbin being provided with a groove h, (see dotted lines, Fig. 2,) and is preferably otherwise constructed like the bobbin of the machine of the application referred to and has a tension-spring which fits in said groove h and bears upon the shuttle-thread to, passing beneath the same, a portion of the tension-spring projecting from the groove h and the face of the bobbin, whereby it may be engaged by a tension-regulating device, whereby the tension or the shuttle-thread may be varied upon the backward-and-forward movements of the shuttle, as described. This tension-regulating device in the machine of the drawings comprises a lever N, which is f ulcrumed at 'n on a shaft 02, mounted in a bearing "n carried by the slide or carrier H, and at its outer end a is suitably formed to act upon the projecting portion of the tension device carried by the bobbin. A movement of the end a toward the face of the bobbin and shuttle will cause the end n to bear upon the tension device and increase the tension on the shuttlethread, and a movement of the end u away from the face of the bobbin and shuttle will release the pressure on the tension device and relieve the tension thereof on the shuttlethread in order that said shuttle may give up its thread as it is moved backward, as hereinbefore described. The lever N is actuated to move its end n toward and from the face of the shuttle and bobbin by means of a lever N, which is fulcrumed on the shaft n and which extends each side of its fulcrum, the forward end 11 being connected with the lever N and the opposite end a being arranged to bear upon a portion of the fixed frame A, adjacent the guideway 1-1 it being held in contact therewith by a coiled spring a, one end of which is connected to the end a of the lever N and the opposite end to some fixed portion of the frame A. In

and move the end n thereof out of the notch the frame A,adjacent the guideway H against which the end 71, of the leverN is held by the spring 72 is formed a cut or notch 12 into 02 thus throwing in the end at, which is connected to the lever N and causing the end a of the lever N to bear forcibly upon'the tension device of the bobbin to increase the tension on the shuttle-thread and prevent its bein g drawn out of the shuttle, and upon a backward movement of the slide H the end n of the lever N will be drawn into the notch or recess n by the action of the spring 12 thus throwing out the end a of the lever N and relieving the pressure on the tension device, permitting the shuttle-thread to be drawn off upon the backward movement of the shuttle. The position of the notch or recess 02 is such that it acts upon the lever N to lock the shuttle-threadjust after the loop of needle-thread has passed the center of the shuttle as it is being carried around the shuttle by the oscillation thereof. At the time the shuttle has reached its advanced position and while the needlethread take-up T is acting upon the needle-thread to set the stitch the shuttlethread is acted upon by. a take-up whichcooperates with the needle-thread take-up in properly tightening the stitch and positioning the lock of the stitch in the between substance.

In the machine of the drawings the shuttlethread take-up is shown as a stud S, which projects from one side of a bent arm 3 of a bell-crank lever, which is pivotally mounted upon a stud 8, carried by. the end at of the lever N, the other arm 8? of the bell-crank lever being pivotally connected at s to a link 8 which in turn is pivoted at s to one arm s of a bell-crank lever which is fulcrumed at s to the slide H, the other arm 5 of said bellcrank lever being pivotally connected at s to a link 3 link 8 being in turn pivotally connected at s to a lever 8 f-ulcrumed to a shaft B and engaging by its outer end a camgroove (not shown) in the face of the cam 13 on the cam-shaft B. Y

The above-described arrangement is such that a rotation of the cam B will, by means of the lever s and link 3 oscillate the bellcrank lever s and 3 about its fulcrum s and draw back the link 8 thus oscillating the bellcrank s and s and causing the arm 8 thereof to be moved in a curved path downward and backward, causing the take-up S to engage the shuttle-thread 'w and exert a pull upon the same, it being understood that said takeup S is actuated when the shuttle is advanced to its forward position, at which time the shuttle-thread w is locked by the tension device, as before explained. It follows, therefore, that inasmuch as one end of the shuttlethread to isin the work and the other end locked the take-up S acts upon the same between two fixed points and can exert the proper pull thereon to cooperate with the needle-thread take-up T in setting the stitch.

In order to provide for the ready insertion and removal of the bobbin hi from the shuttle H; thelever N is arranged to swing cut Wardly away from the face of the sh uttle upon the shaft n, and the end 02 of the lever N is operatively connected with said lever N by-a pin or bolt U), which fits in a bearing w in the end of lever N and engages-an aperture (not shown) in the lever N, and the link 5 is made in two sections, hinged together at 10 in vertical alinement with the shaft 01, so that the said lever N and the forward portion of link .9 may be swung around away from the face of the shuttle Whenever it becomes necessary to remove or replace a bobbin therein.

The operation of the machine of the draw-' ings may be described as follows: The channel-guide and welt-guide having fed the work and the needle D having been forced through the between substances and the looper having thrown the loop of needle-thread around the needle, as the needle recedes it draws up the loop of needle-thread in position to be engaged and removed therefrom by the hook on the shuttle. When the needle D reaches the position shown in Fig. 1, the shuttle H is advanced to the position shown in said figure by the advance movement of the carrier H, and said shuttle being oscillated the loop of needle-thread pulled up by the needle is removed therefrom by the hook of the shuttle and by the movement thereof carried arou nd the shuttle. When the needle-thread passes the center of the shuttle, the continued forward movement of the carrier. H has caused the end a of the lever N to move out of the notch n thus throwing the end a of the lever N against the tension device of the bobbin h,

and locked the shuttle-thread. The needle thread is now acted upon by the take-up T to pull in the loop of needle-thread to set the stitch at the same time the shuttle-thread take-up S is moved downwardly by the lever s bell-crank s and s and link 3 and engaged theshuttle-thread w, exerting a'pull thereon, thus cooperating with the needlethread take-up in setting the stitch, drawing the upper and welt up closely to the lip and properly positioning the lock in the between substances. When the stitch has been properly set, the channel-guide and Weltguide are moved backwardly preparatory to feeding the work, d uring which time the slide H is retracted, permitting the spring a to draw the end n of the lever Ninto the notch n thus throwing outward the end a of the lever N, releasing the shuttle-thread tension device and permitting the shuttle-thread to be drawn off in the further backward movement of the shuttle.

Having fully described my invention and its mode of operation, I claim as novel and desire .to secure by Letters Patent of the United States 1. In a shoe-sewin g machine,the combination witha stitch-forming mechanism comprising a shuttle and a supply-thread take- .np, of a shuttle-thread take-up independent of the shuttle, and means to actuate the same device, of a shuttle-thread take-up located ad= jacent to and independent of the shuttle and means to increase the tension'of said tension device to lock the shuttle-thread during the action of the shuttle-thread take-up, substantially as described.

4. In a shoe-sewing machine, the combina tion with a stitch-forming mechanism comprising a shuttle and means to impart to said shuttle its loop engaging movement and means to move said shuttle bodily toward and from the needle, of a shuttle-thread tension device, and means to vary the tension of said tension device upon the movement of the shuttle toward and from the needle, substantially as described.

5. In a shoe-sewing machine, the combination with a stitch-forming mechanism com-' prising a shuttle, and means to impart to said shuttle its loop-engaging movement and means to move said shuttle bodily toward and from the needle, of a tension device and means to increase the tension of said tension device upon the forward movement of the shuttle, and to relieve the tension of said tension device upon a backward movement of said shuttle, substantially as described.

6, In a shoe-sewing machine, the combination with a stitch-forming mechanism comprising a shuttle and means to impart to said shuttle its loop-engaging movement, and a reciprocating carrier upon which said shuttle is mounted arranged to move the shuttle toward and from the needle, ofashuttle-thread tension device, and means connected with said carrier for controlling the operation of the tension device, substantially as described.

7. In a shoe-sewing machine, the combination with a stitch-forming mechanism, comprising a shuttle and means to impart to said shuttle its loop-engaging movement, and a reciprocating carrier upon which said shuttle.

8. In a shoe-sewing machine, the combination with a stitch-forming mechanism comprising a shuttle, of a shuttle-thread take-up located adjacent to and independent of the shuttle arranged to engage the shuttle-thread between the shuttle and the needle, substantially as described.

9. In a shoe-sewing'machine, the combinaing a shuttle and means to move the same t0.

ward and from the needle, of a shuttle-thread take-up movable with said shuttle toward and from the needle, said take-up being located adjacent to and independent of the shuttle, substantially as described.

11.. In ashoe-sewing machine, the combination with a back gage or rest for the work held from motion transversely to the line of feed of-the work, of a shuttle, and means to advance and retract said shuttle toward and from the working end of the fixed gage, a

shuttle-thread tension device and means actuated by the reciprocations of the shuttle to vary the tension of the shuttle-thread tension device, substantially as described.

12. In ashoe-sewing machine, the combina; tion with a stitch-forming mechanism comprising a shuttle, means to impartto said shuttle its loop engaging movement and means to move said shuttle toward and from the needle, of a shuttle-thread take-up independent of the shuttle, and means to cause it to engage the shuttle-thread when the shuttle is in its advanced position, substantially as described.

13. In ashoe-sewing machine the combination with a needle and shuttle, means to move the shuttle toward and from the needle and means to impart to said shuttle its loop-engaging movement, of a shuttle-thread takeup normally disengaged from the thread movable with said shuttle in its movements toward and from the needle, and means to actuate said take-up upon a movement of the shuttle toward the needle to cause said take up to engage the shuttle-thread and exert a ERASTUS EWINKLEY.

Witnesses:

A. E. WHY'IE, JOHN J COLLINS. 

